Saturday, June 02, 2001

Paris may belong to Parisian, but Paris in summer belongs to the tourists. This chic, cosmopolitan, lively but a little pompous city were thronged with tourists during the summer, so if you want to get the best spot, you have to get up very-very early to beat the others.

First destination - Eiffel Tower.

Normally, we don't have problem walking five kilometre straight from our hotel at the Spanish Quarters just to reach a tourist spot, but it was a hot day and we had just reached the city early morning.

We made a mistake by following our hotel's front office suggestion that we walk to the Eiffel Tower because it was a lovely day! instead of taking the subway. He suggested we take the walkway along the river and enjoy the people and the weather.

Along the river, there were many stalls selling souvenirs such as Eiffel Tower key chains, postcards, posters, paintings and second hand books. But since we were still tired from our long journey we were almost kaput half-way and really had to sit down a few times.

There were also many traders selling ice-cold mineral water and carbonated drinks in bucket of ice for Fr5-Fr10 a bottle.

We stopped to admire many bridges or ponts along the way and one of them was Le Pont Alexandre III which was classed as a Monument history. It was built between 1897 and 1900 and inaugurated as the Universal Expositions of 1900 opened. The bridge was completely renovated in 1991.

We reached the tower one hour later and I was quite surprised to see the long queue of tourists waiting to go up the tower at all its four pillars- North, South, East and West. Two pillars were serviced by elevators, while another two have steps to the observation deck.

The 324metre high tower was designed by Stephen Sauvestre and built by famous French civil engineer in iron construction Gustave Alexandre Eiffel and completed on March 31, 1889.

The lower section consists of four immense arched legs that curve inward until they unite in a single tapered tower set on masonry piers. There are observation decks at three levels - the first is also the restaurant.

We were a bit disappointed to see many tourists at the Eiffel Tower so we decided to enjoy the view of this massive wrought-iron tower from below. Satisfied, that we have finally reached one of the most popular tourist spot, we headed back tour hotel. It was another long walk back along the river.


Second destination - Notra-Dame Cathedral.

The next day, by 9am, we were already standing in front of Notre-Dame Cathedral- a Gothic masterpiece.

I have been longing to see this cathedral since the day I knew how to pronounced it properly- thanks to watching the Hunchback of Notra-Dame cartoon movie on television during my adolescent years.

The construction of this cathedral began in 1160 and was completed in 1345. History said that the Parisian hated the cathedral during the construction period of this grand cathedral.

In 1972 King Louis IX was canonised as St Louise and in 1304, Philip the Fair celebrated his military victory by riding his horse up and down the aisles in the Notre-Dame. It was also said the view of the city from aisles is spectacular but we did not have the chance to do so due to the sea of tourists.

On the pavement near the Notre-Dame west door is a spot known as kilometre zero. This is where all of the main road distances in France are calculated.

From Notre-Dame we walked towards the Haussmann's police Headquarters and straight to the flower market nearby. It is similar to Amsterdam's flower market, and you can get all types of flowers, seeds and other decorative at very reasonable price.

Our expedition took us straight to the Louvre, biggest museum in Paris. You can spend the whole day here but still cannot cover the whole place.
A two hour journey by train from Atocha Station in Madrid brought us to Cordoba, one of the former historical Islamic cities located in Andalusia province at the south of Spain.

We intended to visit the famous La Mezquita-Catedral (Mosque-Cathedral) that was built at the banks of Guadalquivir by the Caliphs during the Arab domination in year 711 to 1263.

Cordoba was the centre of the Al-Andalus empayar and the capital of the western Caliphate. It was also the artistic and cultural centre as well.

From the train station, we took the No 3 bus to Plaza Tendillas and from there walked along the Jesus Maria street to the Mosque-Cathedral.

The building stood next to the former Omeya fortress that flanked by three Moorish baths, one of which the Santa Maria bath is still partially standing.

The Mezquita de Cordoba was begun in 784 by Caliph Abdul Rahman I, over the old Christian basilica of San Vicente. In the 10th century, after several extensions, it became one of the largest mosque in the world.

The Mezquita boasted combined architectural from Roman, Gothic, Byzantine, Syrian and Persian elements. It was the starting point of all Arabian-Hispanic architecture for centuries until the province was reconquered by the Christians.

This Mosque is considered the most important Islamic monument in the western world and the combination of columns and arches were so impressive that some authors called it the eight Wonder of the world.

Stepping into the courtyard, visitors were greeted by the Patio de Los Naranjos (The Orange Tress courtyard), a work entrusted by Bishop Martin Fernandez de Angulo to local architect Hernan Ruiz I in the 16th Century. The courtyard was the original work by Abdul Rahman III and Almansur, two caliphs responsible in expanding the mosque.

The palm trees in this courtyard are known to have been growing in the 13th Century and was replaced by orange trees in the 15th Century and in the 18th Century, olive trees and cypresses were planted.

To enter the Mezquita main building, visitor has to buy ticket for 1,000 pts. At one end of the courtyard is the Mezquita's bell tower where the top portion covering the Islamic Minaret was built in 16th century.

The main building which was constructed over the Christian basilica by Abdul Rahman I (756-788) used mostly its original materials which took seven years to complete. It presented the splendour of the Hellenic civilization.

The most outstanding features of the section are the variety of its columns, an example of the Graeco-Roman, Egyptian and Visigothic styles. It was the starting point of all Arabian-Hispanic architecture for centuries until the province was reconquered by the Christians.

The long construction work had resulted in mix of Roman Gothic style is combined with Baroque and Renaissance elements. A number of chapels were also constructed in the temple, the most famous is the Purisima Concepcion (17th century).

Just to double-check the qiblat in the mosque, we use our Kaabah compass that we brought along and follow the direction until we found the mihrab in the mosque.

The mihrab is a beautiful art work depicting floral design and caligraphic of verses from Quran. Once you are in front of the mihrab you can see red and white columns decorated with floral emblems and Quran verses while ceiling is covered with beautiful Moorish coffering.

There is also a small museum or Cathedral Treasury near the mihrab where you can find processional monstrance used during Corpus Christi made by a German goldsmith Heinrich von Arfe in the 1500s as commissioned by the Bishop Angulo.

You can also find relics of San Bartolome and Santa Ursula and silver aspersorium engraved with episcopal coats of arms and inscription dating from 1561 and 1562.

Not far from the Cardinal's Chapel is a small spot allocated to display remains of the Caliph lineage and Quran verses. But what was more touching experience to us, was when we found the foundation stone with surah (we believed Surah Qursi) emblemed on it.

Meanwhile outside the Mezquita walls, the streets are filled with shops selling souvenirs. The whitewash walls and balconies of the houses along the street were adorned with flowers pots mostly Geraniums - the most popular flowers in Andalusia.

Cordoba is a very lively town with the best Andalusian tradition, a town of Flamenco and bullfighting, and certainly one of the most attractive destinations in southern Spain.

By 2pm we were already at the Cordoba train station to go back to Atocha Station and get ready for our journey to Paris from Madrid Chamartin train station.

Friday, June 01, 2001

Gondola is an ancient rowing craft which are most popular and widely used in the canals of Venice, Italy.

This tapered 10 metre flat bottomed boat were designed to fit the inner canals of the city which are very narrow.

Due to its 177 canals and limited space for street in Venice, the usage of gondola which can carry up to six passengers are most popular.

Gondolier standing on the stern cover at the end of the boat only uses one oar to enable boats to pass each other along the narrow canals with ease. Some gondolas have removable cabin cover to give passengers shelter and some privacy.

This form of transportation were very popular in the 17th century that it was said there were about 10,000 gondolas during that time.

The first gondola racing was also introduced during this period where both men and women competed in the race.

In 1562, all gondolas in Venice were painted black after the sumptuary law was passed, so as not to encourage the glorification of wealth.

Only special gondolas for dignitaries and foreign diplomats could be highly decorative. Now, gondolas are very costly, and their very specialised construction is a dying industry as the not many younger

.Originally the ferri (plural for ferro) were the same size at both ends of the boat and were made of iron which weighed about 45 pounds. Currently it is made from aluminium and are a little lighter. Besides as decoration it serve as counterbalancing the weight of the gondolier and the passengers. It is quite technical to explain how a gondola was built but this unique slim boat is one of the main attractions in Venice. arny Abu Khair
Beware of pickpockets in Barcelona, Spain. And if you reached there by train, remember that the Estacio Barcelona-Sants station did not operate 24-hours and closes at midnight.

It was too late when we discovered about the station's operating hour. A security guard shooed us out at 11.45pm. Other travellers who were also in the station at that time also stunned when the guards with single English vocab “Out” made their rounds.

So for four-and-a-half hour, the three of us spent our night at a bus stop outside the station. As we reached Barcelona at 7pm and only want to spend a day in the city, we had decided not to check into any hotels and just spent the night at the station.

We had stored our bags in the coin-feed bag compartments and only have our small backpack with us. Luckily we took our jackets along with us that night. We were warned to take extra care of our belongings in Rome instead we encountered many petty thieves here in Barcelona.

They normally work in a group and their targets were international tourists who were stranded and forced to spend the night at the train station.

Since the tourists had to spend our night outside, many tried to get comfortable by using card board boxes as their makeshift beds. However, the three of us did not dare to sleep as we were very worried of our passports and cash money.

Although Barcelona is a very nice city with buildings with unique architecture such as the Sagrada Familia and the Mila House or popularly known as La Pedrera by famous architect Antoni Gaudi, two incidents that night at the station had dampened our enthusiasm to explore the city.

Marina's sling bag containing her passport and our train tickets was almost carted away when Juli made a mistake by putting the bag between her and me when we were sitting at the bench inside the station earlier. Like a flash a youth from behind snatched the bag.

Luckily I saw his action and immediately turn to confront him. Without a word, the youth gave the bag back.

A local told us (in broken English) that these youth loiter at the train station and targetted on tourists who were careless of their belongings. He said the thieves would have no choice but to give back the bag once confronted as the police would bash them up half-dead if they catch him. He said we were lucky to act immediately and got back the bag.

The second incident we witnessed was outside the train station around 2.30am where the police patrol cars had stopped their rounds and everyone was already felt sleepy.

A group of six youth started their modus operandi by walking up and down the five foot ways looking for their victim. We named them “Enam Jahanam”.

This time, it was an elderly man who was deep in his sleep and separated from the other groups. At first one of them tried to slowly pull out the man's fat wallet but failed. Then his friend handed him a pocket knife and he slowly cut the man's pocket.

We tried to make some noise by laughing and clearing our throat loudly but the man did not wake up. (I guess he was too tired from his long journey.) In the end, the youth walked away with their loot to be shared among them.

The victim only realised about his misfortune until when the station re-opened at 4.30am, but it was too late for him.

Once back in the station, these petty thieves started eyeing for their next victims. So, we decided to take turns sleeping. But by 7am the guards made their wake up call rounds waking up those who were sleeping on the benches.

After freshen up and had our breakfast, we took a cab and headed towards La Rambala where shops selling all types of goods from designer brands to tourists souvenirs are available here.

La Rambala also known as Rambla de Catalunya and nearby street Passeig de Gracia are lined with fashionable boutiques, jewellery shops and pavement cafes. There are also outstanding modern buildings including Farmacia J de Bolos, and Serra House, an early 20th century work by the architect Josep Puigi i Cadafalch.

There are other attractions located nearby such as the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Arts and Centre de Cultura Contemporania de Barcelona at the Casa de la Caritat. These tourists attractions are also easily connected with the underground trains or Metro.

There are many Metro stations nearby namely Catalunya, Urquinaona and Jaume I. Tourists just have to know which train they take and can get down at any of these stations.

The attractions such as the Cathederal and many museums such as Museu Frederic Mares, Museu d'Histori de la Ciutat and Museu Barbier-Mueller d'Art Precolombi are just nearby.

Although there are many vehicles on the roads in the city, its impressive traffic management system had ensured that they flow smoothly especially during peak hours.

The roads here are wider with four to five lanes and mostly are one way. Nevertheless there are many traffic lights to enable pedestrian to cross the road safely.

Its many roundabouts that have beautiful statues or monuments such as the Columbus monument near Maremagnum leisure centre add more architectural beauty to the city.

However, since our time at Barcelona was limited, we did not spent so much time at the city and had to head back to train station as we had booked a 2.30pm train tickets to Madrid.
Looking for good Italian-made leather jackets, handbags and shoes?

Instead of buying them off the shelves at designer boutiques lining at Piazza di Spagna, why not head to Marceto di Via Sannio.

The market is very accessible as it is ver near to the S. Giovanni underground train station. We bought the intergrated day ticket for lire6,000. This ticket is useable for any trains, trams and buses.

The transportation system is very user-friendly. Although the officers seldom check the ticket but once you are caught without a valid ticket or a ticket at all, the penalty is very high.

Taking no risk, we bought our routine day ticket at the vending machine and took the red-line underground train to Via Sannio. The market opens early and very famous among the locals.

Due to its popularity, tourists had also flocked the market to get good bargains on leather goods.

Here you can get half-the-price off the normal designer leather goods. A leather handbag will cost you between lire35,000 and lire65,000 due to its popularity among the tourists, some stalls do accept credit cards!

We found the exact same handbags sold at lire160,000 at a leather bag shop at the termini only at lire65,000 at the market minus the label of course.

The stalls were set up along the road and the prices are very competative. So it will definitely help a lot if your Italian Vocab proceed beyond grazie and parla Inglese?

Here you can also get other goods such as silk scarf, accessories, dresses, table cloths and decorative items. The trick is to know how to bargain with the traders.

ends

Wednesday, May 30, 2001

The remaking of the majestic amphitheatre in the movie Gladiator made me the more excited to see the real Roman Colosseum at Via di San Giovanni in Laterano in Rome.

The construction of the Colosseum also known as Flavian Amphitheater, was started by the Emperor Vespasian between 70 and 76 AD, and completed by his son Titus in 80 AD. It is located between the Esquiline and Caelian Hills and was the first amphitheatre to be built and one of the great architectural monuments by the ancient Romans.

The amphitheatre was built near the former spot where Nero had erected a colossus or huge bronze statue of himself that depicted him as the God of Sun. The 30-metre high statue was moved away later by 24 elephants!

At one time, this massive building can accommodate 50,000 spectators around a central elliptical arena. It had approximately eighty entrances so crowds could be dispersed easily.

Below the wooden arena floor, there was a complex set of rooms and passageways for wild beasts and other provisions for staging the spectacles.

This ancient amphitheatre drew thousands of tourists all year round and the queue at the entrance are normally long.

Rome in spring is quite hot, and mobile stalls selling ice-cold water and ice cream are definitely a temptation and hard to resist but the price here are doubled than the price at normal stalls.

We bought tickets for lire 30,000 and spent half-and-hour inside the amphitheatre admiring the ancient architecture imagining the crowd cheering at gladiators who were fighting their lives against beasts. At first there were fights to the death between wild animals: bear against buffalo, buffalo against elephant, and elephant against rhinoceros.

Sometimes there would even be fights between men and tame beasts. These fights were called venationes. Finally, this gory gladiatorial fights were banned in 404 AD and animal fights in 523 AD.

To bring back memories why not take picture with one of the gladiators roaming around the amphitheatre in complete suit. Well, they may look nothing like Russel Crowe, but these gladiators are expensive. A picture with them may cost you lire5,000-10,000.

For romantic at heart, you can take a horse ride along the ancient town but it may spoil your mood a little with the traffic jams in the city.

Nearly 3,000 years of glorious history have made Rome, the capital of Italy, a chaotic city that leaves urban planners shaking their heads.

Today, the city authorities have already started sandblasting monuments, buying new city buses, expanding the underground train system, rerouting traffic and landscaping parks for the convenience of the tourists.

From Colosseum we visited the triple arch of Constantine, which was built in year 315 after Constantine defeated Maxentius at Ponte Milvio. After a few snaps, we were on our way to Piazza Navona.

Along the Via de Fori Imperiali, you can see many stalls selling t-shirts, souvenirs and paintings. What is more interesting, that most of the hawkers selling these souvenirs are immigrants from India and Bangladesh who have been living in Rome for years.

We stopped at Foro Romano to admire one of the biggest Roman ruins collection in the world.

These ruins were the remains of famous buildings during the time of Julius Cesar, Augustus, Traian and Nerva such as the Curia, or Senate House - the oldest buildings in the area. The Comitium (assembly place), The Temple of Saturn, The Temple of Castor and Polux which celebrates the Roman rebellion against the Etruscan King and the House of Vestal Virgins.

It was a long walk from Foro Romano to Piazza Navona but it was worth it. We were warned to be careful of our belongings in this cosmopolitan city as petty thieves and pickpockets would eye tourists who were careless of their wallets and cash. But now it is quite safe for tourists to walk in any back alley and can enjoy the sight seeing without worrying too much of petty thieves as policemen were stationed at every corner of the road.

The Italian Government effort to make the city safe for tourists is lauded as tourism is one of the main income for the country.

The long walk finally brought us to Piazza Navona - a plaza that was built over the ruins of Domitian's stadium. In the centre, stands the fountain of the Four Rivers (Danube, Ganges, Nile and Rio de la Plata) created by Gian Lorenzo Bernini for Pope Innocent X.

This is one of the famous piazzas in Rome. There were many cafes surrounding the piazza where all the chairs facing the magnificent monuments.

Another famous piazza is Piazza di Spagna. One of the meeting places especially for the local youth. The “Spanish Square steps” is the famous spot here. It also the place to sit and watch people pass by.

Like the other piazzas, another attraction is the fountain and here, you can dip your sore feet at cool water of the Barcaccia fountain - a masterpiece of Baroque art by Bernini.

ends